New cockpit sole hatch

hatch1

 

The standard access hatch to the area behind the engine is a plywood panel glued and screwed in situ, with a small plastic screw hatch. It’s not very good. The bigger circular item is a base for a cockpit table. Below this hatch are the cockpit drain seacocks, the gearbox dipstick, the gearbox oil cap, the propeller shaft, the stern gland, the exhaust elbow, the exhaust box, etc, etc. That little screw hatch gives next to no access at all.

Spurred on by a post in the Cornish Crabber forum by Kevin Misselbrook, I decided to follow his lead and add a larger inspection and access hatch. It only took me 30 minutes, so is an easy upgrade for any other owners. Buy the hatch by clicking here.

hatch2

 

This is with the plywood hatch removed, and you can see the sten gland and cockpit drain seacocks.

hatch3

 

This is the hatch in place. All I needed to do was cut out a slightly larger hole with my jigsaw.

hatch6

 

Here the hole has been enlarged and the screw holes for the hatch drilled though,

hatch5

 

The hatch now sits flush and just needs loads of sealant underneath, before screwing down tightly.

hatch7

 

That’s all there is to it. I wiped the excess sealant away with a rag, and that was it. I then covered it up with the new red cedar duck-boards make by my dad, Tony.

hatch8

Advertisements

8 thoughts on “New cockpit sole hatch

  1. Looking good!
    If you spray those duck boards, and any other bare wood, with a solution of Brintons Patio Magic they won’t go green. Take another look at Aeolus if you don’t believe me 🙂

  2. I hope you don’t object but I’d like to show my boatwright the pictures when he rebuilds my engine box and cockpit sole. The red cedar looks very good, was it easy to find?
    Lloyd – Gilda Mk1

  3. There is a Cuprinol product called StayNew for garden furniture, I have found this excellent for teak and cedar. It is very easy to apply. I have it on a teak nameplate and it has lasted there for 3 years.

  4. A slight note of caution – the cockpit sole is balsa-cored, so you need to be very sure that no water will leak into your cut edges or screw holes to rot the core. Personally I would have used thickened epoxy to re-encapsulate the wood rather than just rely on the sikaflex under the hatch…

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s